We spent most of June in Denmark. It was a blast! We flew in and out of Copenhagen, and traveled to Aarhus, Ærø island, Billund (for Legoland), and Hornbæk. We rented a car, and took ferries where we could. We had Lily and our friend’s 5-year old daughter with us. Denmark is exceptionally kid-friendly. The time of year was fun: the sun didn’t set until 11pm, and it rose again at 3am. We ended up buying black paper and tape to darken the windows.
In Copenhagen, we rented an airbnb across from Ørsteds Park, a beautiful green expanse with playgrounds, cafes, and a lake. We also rented a cargo bike for the kiddos, and bikes for all the adults. The highlights to me were the restaurants (Relæ was the favorite, also Kodybens Fiskebar), the excellent babysitting service, the aquarium, the Experimentarium, and the fact that you can buy beer at most playgrounds and parks. We splurged on the Copenhagen Card, which gives you a ton of entrance fees and all public transit for free. I think we saved some money? It was hard to track. We also went to Tivoli Gardens, the second-oldest amusement park in the world, and where Walt Disney was supposedly inspired to create Disney World.
After a wonderful five nights in CPH, we got our rental car, managed to get a parking ticket in the first 30 minutes, and then traveled to Hornbæk, a little town on the coast, for some quiet beach time. We stopped on the way at Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, which was incredible! They also have a large children’s wing, and beautiful outdoor areas, and a nice cafeteria. From Hornbæk, we also checked out KRONBORG castle, and took a ferry to Sweden, where we were totally disappointed, except for an amazing statue of a naked man with one leg on a severed head. It was Lily’s favorite.
KRONBORG was a truly special place. The castle is filled with Shakespearean actors reenacting scenes from Hamlet (it’s the same castle where Hamlet took place!). Queen Gertrude took a special liking to Lily and her friend Evelyn, so they spent quality time with the Queen, Ophelia, and Yorrick, the jester. It was well worth the money and time to check out the castle.
After Hornbæk, we took a super fun ferry ride to Aarhus. The ferry was enormous and had a kid’s movie playing, and all the hot dogs and beer you could ever want. Aarhus is a cute town, we again did an Airbnb (4 floor walkup…ugh). Aarhus has some amazing art galleries. The Aarhus ARoS art museum was really impressive. The kids loved it!
After Aarhus, we went to Legoland. We stayed at Lalandia, which has a giant indoor water park, plus restaurants and an ice rink, and is walking distance to Legoland. I highly recommend it. Legoland was cool too. The girls had a blast and I even got to ride a roller coaster, which I hadn’t done in ages.
From Legoland, we ventured all the way to the quaint island of Ærø. We took a ferry (it’s an island!). It is a beautiful and quiet island with adorable scenes and thousands of weddings each year. Nice beaches, very bike friendly, excellent food. I hated our accommodations, so I can’t recommend it. Look for nice hotels or b&bs in the bigger towns, particularly Ærøskøbing.
After 3 nights of lazily wandering around the island, we headed back to CPH! On the way, we stopped at another castle, Egeskov, which had hedge mazes, amazing playgrounds, picnic areas, and a cool castle with moat. It wasn’t quite as magical as KRONBORG, but it was a nice way to spend a few hours.